Great Madeira crossing

The Idea

There are a lot of articles describing crossings of Madeira from one end to the other. Apart from the exhausting Madeira Island Ultra Trail (MIUT), a sporting event for the really tough ones, the rest follow the usual pattern: start at Ponta de São Lourenço, cross the central ridge, ideally taking PR 1 between Pico do Areeiro and Pico Ruivo, visit Rabaçal and Fanal, and end up in Porto Moniz, with some continuing to Ponta do Pargo.

I am planning a slightly different itinerary, skipping places I have already visited and the crowded spots completely, or just passing through if unavoidable. My plan follows my philosophy of raw, demanding but rewarding trekking off the beaten track.

I will hike for 9 days, spend 8 nights in the wilderness and try to respect local regulations and laws as far as possible. The trek will take me from the town of Machico in the eastern part of the island to the westernmost lighthouse at Ponta do Pargo.

What I am going to see

I will start with a view of the legendary Madeira Airport from the viewpoint just above Machico, then follow a couple of levadas with magnificent views until I reach the village of Ribeiro Frio. From then on, things start to get serious. First, I will take the old trail through a long tunnel from Fajã da Nogueira directly to PR 9 between Caldeirão Verde and Caldeirão do Inferno. I will enjoy the still-lonely Levada do Caldeirão Verde in the early morning and hopefully leave before the crowds arrive.

Another tunnel will lead me towards Lombo do Urzal, and I will spend the night above it at around 1,300 m. The next day will take me briefly back to civilisation between Ginjas and São Rosário, just above São Vicente. I will enjoy the views from Levada Fajã do Rodrigues until I reach its source at Ribeira do Inferno. A well-deserved rest comes at Estanquinhos.

My trek continues past Pico Ruivo do Paúl and along Levada do Norte until I reach the valley of Rabaçal through a series of tunnels. I will pass through Rabaçal quickly to reach the UNESCO World Heritage forest of Fanal hours later. From there, the trail follows PR 14 briefly before turning towards Levada da Ribeira da Janela. I think I will take the opportunity to stay at the Ribeira da Janela campsite for one night before continuing to Fajã da Quebrada Nova below Achadas da Cruz, my favourite spot on Madeira. I will never skip a prego at 101 Bar, the friendliest place I know on the island. And the last stage will take me to the end of the world: the lonely beach at Fajã Grande and the final climb to the chapel at Lombardinha.

I will spend the last day in Funchal, get civilised after more than a week in the wild and enjoy some of my favourite dishes on the island.

Equipment and duration

The trek is planned to take 9 full days, with 8 nights in a tent or shelters. Places at official campsites need to be reserved beforehand, as does access to PR trails. I will carry the bare minimum of equipment for a light but not eremitic hike.